Tuff City
Saying 'See You Later'
I decided that I wanted a rental property. I was living and working in Fort McMurray so, at the time, buying in Edmonton made sense. It was the nearest ‘big city’, a 4-1/2 hour drive away. I had an awesome realtor show me some places. They were mostly in the Whyte Ave area, a fun part of Edmonton. Full of hipsters and university students, gentrified just enough with cute shops and great dive bars.
Then - life changed and I put that on hold. I met Curt, and he took me on his annual trip with friends to Tofino. There’s so much to love about the place. Rugged wild coasts, surfing, cool people, great food and the list goes on. One morning while everyone was still asleep at our campsite I went for a walk. The town is very walkable so I headed to the town centre for a cup of coffee.
Along the way, I saw an old cedar tree. Not just any old tree, this one has a name and a history. A sign in front of it explains that its name is Eik and it’s 800-years-old. It was saved from logging by some locals who spent weeks in the tree to ensure its safety. Since then it’s been supported by a steel frame and cables in case it were to start to fall toward the condos below. That’s when I saw the ‘for sale’ sign.
One of the condos near Eik was for sale! After a few days of thinking about it, we decided to put in an offer.
Tofino has a very real housing shortage. With so many seasonal workers to support tourism, there are nowhere near enough places for people to live. People often resort to living in tents and motorhomes while working multiple jobs. We learned that our potential purchase had locals renting it full-time. Instead of making it a vacation rental and kicking them out, we decided to buy it under the condition that they could stay. It was a bad financial choice but it felt like the right one and one that we were willing to make.
We bought the condo sight unseen. After a few months of owning it, life circumstances caused the renters to move out. We could finally go and check out our condo! We brought the things needed to make it a vacation rental. Both of us were still working so we had to squeeze the trip into just a few days off.
200km from Nanaimo, the drive to Tofino isn’t very long but it’s really exciting. You start through a forest of massive trees. MacMillan Park and Cathedral Grove is home to 800-year-old Douglas Fir. The speed limit through them is low due to both the road narrowing and tourists stopping to take a walk through the trees which tower hundreds of feet overhead.
After that, you go through Port Alberni, the last town along the way with a few big box stores. From there you begin into the more rugged part of the drive. With lots of twists and turns, the drive goes by fast. Steep rocky hillsides on one side feel like they’re leaning over the road and a huge freshwater lake with waves crashing on the other. When the trees get more gnarled looking you know that you’re getting close to the coast. When you start to see sandy beaches with waves crashing to shore - you’ve made it.
Tofino is a world all its own. The coast is a rainforest, so ‘gum boots’ or rubber boots are regular fashion. Most people living there are fierce environmentalists and many ride bikes, though not all. A well-used walkway called the ‘MUP’ or multi-use path connects some of the farther reaches of town to the core. Seeing a cyclist carrying an 8-foot-long surfboard is not uncommon.
Tofino is largely known for its surfing. I’m not a surfer but I’ve done it a few times and of those few times I’ve successfully stood on the board in the water even less. In my defence, I’m from a landlocked province and don’t skateboard. So, I hardly stand a chance!
The waves there are unpredictable but fun. I found myself tumbling in the saltwater more than anything, stepping on large clams and getting wrapped up in bull kelp - but it was a blast. At the end of a day in the surf, exhausted from being pummelled by waves - the beer was that much more delicious.
We delighted in getting our tidal fishing licences and hand-picking red rock crabs. Though harder to shell, their meat is sweet and delicious. After a few years of owning there, it was time for a change. A shift in focus maybe. I’ve heard people say that owning a vacation rental sort of spoils the experience of being a tourist and I found that to be a bit true. I know that we didn’t see and do everything, there’s no way! However, I look forward to going back - as a tourist.
Owning our little condo was incredible. We were able to explore far more of the town than we ever could have and I have so many stories to tell, that I can’t fit them all into one blog. Trails, secret beaches, hot springs, an old airplane crash site, partying, foraging and glowing sand just to name a few. Let me know which stories you’d like to hear more of!
Truly a magical place in the Cathedrals, there has to be real fairies in there! Nothing like surfing Tofino, love it!! Great read Amy :) -Mel
Excellent job with the commentary and photos. Makes you feel as if you were there with you. Thank you for this.