As someone who heated a larger house with wood for almost fifty years I learned a few lessons. Of the many axes and mauls I used, Fiskars splitting axe came out on top by a wide margin. I gave up on using axes and mauls on large rounds because steel wedges work better. My favourite chainsaws were a Stihl 46 and 461 with 28 inch bar. The longer the bar the bigger the wood you can cut but, more importantly, the less bending over you need to do. Always have a back up saw handy. Learn how to wedge a tree over if it isn't leaning the right way or if your bar gets jammed. Skip tooth chains work good for firewood and are quicker to sharpen if you hit a rock or nail. Wear eye and ear protection, and if the wood is dusty dry even a mask. Eye protection is the big one, don't skimp on it. Splitting rounds is a lost art. It would take pages to give you even the basics for safety and efficiency. - but I will supply a few pointers. Always use a large chopping block and put the round you are splitting on the very back so if you have a "pass through" the axe won't keep coming and cut your leg. Find the largest distance between two knots on the round and put your first swing there. Hit the front edge of the round first not the middle. Bend at the waist as you are swinging down on a round. It's safer than standing fully upright. If you are trying to cut green wood and you bury your axe in the round don't try to pull it out by working the handle. Grab a wedge and a maul and just finish the split. Frozen wood splits easier. When I was a kid back east people would use 25 or 30 cords of hard wood a year between their furnace and wood stove and they didn't have the fancy splitting mauls, just worn down cutting axes, so they split there next years wood in winter after the wood froze.
I will add tarps to your list, because they are very handy for repairs, building, temporary shelter, generating heat, shielding from wind, etc. I hate the cheap ones because when they tear they leave little bits of plastic everywhere.
As much as I love my gas and power tools, I make sure to have manual tools as backup. This includes things like drills.
Something that is not a specific tool but very useful is anything that gives you leverage over things that are heavier than you. Rope and pulleys, a long pipe, even smaller logs to use as prying tools or to roll something heavy on.
But the most important things on the list are skills and knowledge. With those two you can improvise anything.
I have a lot of gas powered chainsaws, but last year I bought a Stihl rechargeable. Oh do I love it. Not for big wood, or big piles to buck, but 6 inch, or quick jobs. It lasts a day rebuilding rail fences, about an hour + of steady cutting. No ear protection, or fums. Very stealthy. I wish they would develop a little inverter to run some LED's off the battery.
Heated my three homes for 35+ years, used mauls, built a 3 point hydraulic splitter, purchased a gator, would go to the woods, start cutting, last few years accompanied by my son, much easier, in research discovered the Fiscar splitting axe, best hand splitter I ever used, around 4+ lbs, would cut, split, haul to barn porch and stack, 1/2 hour a load.
Amy, you have both proven that societies do not have to be dependent on governments and "Save On" for survival. You have discovered and are living a beautiful blend of the old and the new. And on top of your wonderful practical way of life, you have inspired so many to contribute their life lessons to your story. I think you should write your own book, and then convert wood into chainsaw art later! I would love to teach you what I have learned, but I know you will supersede anything I can do.
You have come a long ways, so interesting reading your blog Amy. We think of you often
living in the wild…wow🥰
As someone who heated a larger house with wood for almost fifty years I learned a few lessons. Of the many axes and mauls I used, Fiskars splitting axe came out on top by a wide margin. I gave up on using axes and mauls on large rounds because steel wedges work better. My favourite chainsaws were a Stihl 46 and 461 with 28 inch bar. The longer the bar the bigger the wood you can cut but, more importantly, the less bending over you need to do. Always have a back up saw handy. Learn how to wedge a tree over if it isn't leaning the right way or if your bar gets jammed. Skip tooth chains work good for firewood and are quicker to sharpen if you hit a rock or nail. Wear eye and ear protection, and if the wood is dusty dry even a mask. Eye protection is the big one, don't skimp on it. Splitting rounds is a lost art. It would take pages to give you even the basics for safety and efficiency. - but I will supply a few pointers. Always use a large chopping block and put the round you are splitting on the very back so if you have a "pass through" the axe won't keep coming and cut your leg. Find the largest distance between two knots on the round and put your first swing there. Hit the front edge of the round first not the middle. Bend at the waist as you are swinging down on a round. It's safer than standing fully upright. If you are trying to cut green wood and you bury your axe in the round don't try to pull it out by working the handle. Grab a wedge and a maul and just finish the split. Frozen wood splits easier. When I was a kid back east people would use 25 or 30 cords of hard wood a year between their furnace and wood stove and they didn't have the fancy splitting mauls, just worn down cutting axes, so they split there next years wood in winter after the wood froze.
That stove/oven is awesome! What brand?
I will add tarps to your list, because they are very handy for repairs, building, temporary shelter, generating heat, shielding from wind, etc. I hate the cheap ones because when they tear they leave little bits of plastic everywhere.
As much as I love my gas and power tools, I make sure to have manual tools as backup. This includes things like drills.
Something that is not a specific tool but very useful is anything that gives you leverage over things that are heavier than you. Rope and pulleys, a long pipe, even smaller logs to use as prying tools or to roll something heavy on.
But the most important things on the list are skills and knowledge. With those two you can improvise anything.
I have a lot of gas powered chainsaws, but last year I bought a Stihl rechargeable. Oh do I love it. Not for big wood, or big piles to buck, but 6 inch, or quick jobs. It lasts a day rebuilding rail fences, about an hour + of steady cutting. No ear protection, or fums. Very stealthy. I wish they would develop a little inverter to run some LED's off the battery.
Heated my three homes for 35+ years, used mauls, built a 3 point hydraulic splitter, purchased a gator, would go to the woods, start cutting, last few years accompanied by my son, much easier, in research discovered the Fiscar splitting axe, best hand splitter I ever used, around 4+ lbs, would cut, split, haul to barn porch and stack, 1/2 hour a load.
Hey Beautiful, Tattoo unveiling?
Amy, you have both proven that societies do not have to be dependent on governments and "Save On" for survival. You have discovered and are living a beautiful blend of the old and the new. And on top of your wonderful practical way of life, you have inspired so many to contribute their life lessons to your story. I think you should write your own book, and then convert wood into chainsaw art later! I would love to teach you what I have learned, but I know you will supersede anything I can do.
Carver Glen
I love reading about your life and how you manage it in the wild. Hats off to you as you are amazing.🤗